The Great Japanese Adventure: August 2005

New Teachers, Old Teachers and the increasing countdown of age

It's been a strange week.

Work has again been ridiculously busy, with still only myself, Evan, Derrick and Dr. Goatee (our new name for Jason, but shhh! don't tell him) being the only teachers in the branch. Some days this has led to days of full lessons, and even students being unable to book. I actually prefer the full lessons. It's easier to waste time, letting the students attempt their English on each other, rather than me. I guess it's less intimidating when you're communicating with someone else who is as unsure of their abilities as you are.

As for work itself, it's still pretty much the same. Fairly easy, stress free and 90% of the time, enjoyable. My normal classes have seen me teach the autistic girl Mayu (all she does is draw, fondle her breasts and repeat everything you say), Hiroe (who in a Man to Man lesson about feelings, hit on me again...) and Satoshi and Kaori (a guy and a girl, who despite being really nice, sound like robots...).

Kids is still a challenge. I have 7 classes a week now. I have a Kinder class on Sunday morning which is fun. Hibiki, who is 5, can't control his hands and is moving into my "Crazy Gang" of Kinders on Saturday afternoon. Also in this Sunday morning class, I have this really cute girl called Maho. She cried on her first day (about 3 weeks ago), but she likes me now and decides to "tickle" me on the back. By tickle I mean scratch me, really hard... I have scars...

Evan is staying in Saijo. He decided to cancel his transfer to Hiroshima at the last minute. It was touch and go though as our Area Manager, Dean (who is a pretty nice guy) told him it could be too late. However he found out on Saturday that he is staying put. To be fair, I'm pretty happy about this. I like Evan, and I think we get on pretty well. I hate the idea of meeting someone, making an effort to be friends and then 6 months later that person goes somewhere else. Evan is a good bloke, so I'm pretty chuffed that he's hanging around.

Jason met one of our new teachers on Friday at the station. He was very cryptic about what she was like, but I had the chance to meet her on Saturday night. Myself, Dr. Goatee and Jennifer all met up for dinner. I decided on Wara-Wara, an Izakaya (Japanese bar/pub thingy), as the food's pretty nice and the atmosphere is relaxed.
She was a bit closed at first, but as soon as we got to the Izakaya, and had a "nama beeru" (draught beer), she was really cool. Although her first statement to me about "I don't like English People" made me come out fighting in my own sarcastic colours. I think (and so does Dr. Goatee) that we got on really well for a first meeting. Despite Jason and her coming from the same State, I don't think she likes him that much. I have to meet the other new teacher, Suzette, on Friday, as if she's half as nice as Jen that'll be cool.

Argghhh! 29 on Thursday. Crap on a stick! I am the eldest teacher at our branch, and somedays I feel like the elder statesman. However over dinner on Saturday, Jen said that 29 is young, that I'm living a life that many younger people strive for and many older people feel they've missed out on. I guess sometimes, you need a stranger to put your life in perspective, (even though I threw in a comment about her being around during the time of the US Civil War, during a conversation about age, to which she replied that she colours her hair)....Anyway, me and Evan are having a party party to celebrate this momentous occassion on Sunday night, and it already looks like its going to be busy here!

So far we have -

Me!
Evan
Jason/Dr. Goatee
Derrick + 1 or 2 guests
Jen + her anorexic friend
Suzette (?)
Ken + "his girl"
NOVA staff - Mina, Yuukie, Akiko
Kaori + 2 friends

Yay!

Good News/Bad News and Happy Birthday Our Kid!

WARNING ! THIS POST IS A MORE PERSONAL RAMBLE.

Things are rarely straightforward in life. Sometimes everything seems shit, and then it can turn so quickly that your head spins. Other times it's a shock when something "bad" lures it's head from the good times. Now I don't want to get too intellectual or intense with this post, and I don't want people to think "Arghhh, whats going on?" because it's nothing of the sort.

I feel blessed to have been given the opportunity to come here. Japan is a truly fascinating country. It's culture, food and people have all entered my heart in a way I didn't expect. I find something new everyday; it maybe a new type of food (my current favourite being Niku Udon), watching a bird build a nest and see the babies grow up and leave, seeing how rice grows in the paddy fields, or a conversation with a student. I hear how my brother and his wife seem to be struggling in the UK, something I experienced, and I feel both pity and guilt. I don't know what to say, except hope that things work out. I know they both read my blog, and will read this. I just want to say that I have faith in both of you and that things will work out, and if they don't then you can always come to Japan with NOVA....(he he he).

My Sister had her birthday yesterday and was the grand old age of 28. I rang her at work, which I think she liked....HAPPY BIRTHDAY KELLY!!!!!

Turning Japanese and Beer Battered Fish and Chips

Konnichi-Wa!

How has my week been ? Rather strange. I had 3 days off, in which I had the migraine from hell and couldn't leave the appartment until 3:30 despite dosing myself up on painkillers. My wisdom tooth has caused a really annoying ulcer in on the side of my mouth. I had a chat to Sam (for those who don't know, or can't remember, my friend in the UK) which was fun. I bought Jason's birthday presents from the 100 yen shop (oh, and Kelly don't worry if you don't get yours, I will try and send as soon as I can) and I travelled into Hiroshima for Japanese lessons.

I am trying to learn Hiragana (one of the Japanese character sets) and I learnt the first 10 in a day. As the textbook, me and Jason are learning Japanese from is in Hiragana, I think it would help to be able to read it.

After the lesson, me and Jason went HERE -----> http://www.mollymalones.jp/

An Irish themed bar in Hiroshima. Unbelievably Jason had never tasted the delights of Draught Guinness, but now I think he's a fan. We also ordered food, which was fantastic. I had Fish and Chips (and it was Cod! and wrapped in newspaper...check out the menu section on their web page for photos) and Jason had some wierd kind of pie.

Oh, and the toilets in this place were cool. Molly Mallones is on the fourth floor of a building and the toilets faced the street. So as you were, well you know, you could look out onto the people below.

It's been a while...

Hey up folks!

I know that it's been quite a time since I posted something other than my trip to Kyoto, but I wanted to do my trip justice, and I think I have, even though their are many photo's that I haven't put up. So in this post, I will update you on what I've been up to...

NEW VOICE CO-ORDINATOR

Firstly some good news. I have been asked by Derrick and Mina (the Japanese manager of my branch) to become the new Voice Co-Ordinator from September. There is no extra pay, but it does afford me more responsibilty and is a nice little ego boost. I am also officially off probation, which is good news so now I AM A NOVA TEACHER.

Wow, those last three months have gone past rather quickly. I remember the excitement and apprehension of my trip to Heathrow airport so vividly that it could have been last week.

KARAOKE REGULAR

It seems that this has become something of a weekly jaunt. Poor Jason seems to be getting no better although he has found that he can pitch shift the songs to suit his voice.

It really is a great way to work off stress, and its nice that you just sing with friends rather than in front of strangers. I personally think this should be an Olympic sport.

NEW TEACHERS

Finally we are getting some new teachers. Two new girls from the US are arriving in the next couple of weeks. Poor Jason is meeting Jennifer next week, and given his history of getting lost, I expect that there'll be a phone call asking for help...

BABY BIRDS AND THE SHIT ON THE STAIRS

Mrs. Swallow's babies hatched. She had four little blighters who have decorated the stairwell with shit and dead dragonflies. Sadly this week in Obon (a Japanese holiday) so nobody has come to clean the stairs, so it has built up into a messy cake of white crap and dead insects.

EVAN COOKS HIS OWN MEAL

Me, Evan and Takuya (Evan's Japanese friend and a nice guy to boot) went for Okonomiyaki at our usual haunt the other day. The owner of Magny Couro is a really nice guy called Jin, and Evan keeps telling him he wants to open an Okinomiyaki shop in Canada, so Jin let Evan become his apprentice for the evening...well he let him cook his own meal...I have included some photo's and I think he did a really good job!

Evan gets his new uniform

Obi Jin and his new apprentice Evan Skywalker...

The Force is strong with this one...

Chop faster!

Oops..

Evan "finishes" his meal...

Kyoto part six - Nanzen-Ji and leaving Kyoto

After my visit to Ryoan-Ji, I decided to spend the afternoon at a place recommended by Evan. Nanzen Ji is the head temple of the Rinzaishu-Nanzenji school, on of the Zen sects and was founded in 1264 by the Emperor Kameyama who later became a monk.

It really was a beautiful place, with wide open gardens and many sub-temples (taccyu). It even had it's own aqueduct hidden amongst the trees, and also the impressive San-Mon (Main Gate) that stood 22 metres high, and afforded me some of the most breathtaking views I have ever seen.

The actual temple of Nanzen-Ji was equally beautiful with a more interesting garden than the one at Ryoan-Ji (it had more warmth in my opinion) and some of the most peaceful and contemplative sights I'd seen in Japan. The Hojo garden dates back to around the 16th Century and I could have sat there in the sun all day. In fact I spent about 2 hours in the area of Nanzen-Ji and it remains my favourite place in Kyoto.

Upon leaving Nanzen-Ji, I headed for Gion, the bustling shopping district. Here I managed to buy an English langauge version of Harry Potter and grabbed some Udon (thick white noodles) for lunch. I also spent most of the afternoon, people watching, still shocked that every other girl in Kyoto was stunningly beautiful.

I had a great time in Kyoto. I guess it's one of those things that you have to experience. I have only posted a handful of the photo's I took whilst I was there, and I apologise that is has taken so long to get everything up.

Stone Gollems at Nanzen-Ji

They remind me of people I know...

Beauty and Colour in the Nanzen-Ji gardens

A Zen Rock Garden- Nanzen-Ji temple

Hojo Garden at Nanzen - Ji

Sunlight on a hidden temple (my Terrance Malick shot)

Atop the waterway

Looking through the arches of the Suirokaku Waterway

The Suirokaku Waterway

A sub-temple seen through the leaves...

Atop the San-Mon - Looking out over Nanzen-Ji

Atop the San-Mon - Looking out over Kyoto

Wooden Pillars of the San-Mon

The San-Mon

Sunlight through the trees - Nanzen-Ji

Kyoto part five - Day two and the long journey to Ryoan - Ji

I awoke after a really content's second night sleep on my futon, and proceeded to prepare myself for the day ahead. Again the weather was already in the high 20's at 8 in the morning and although I was grateful for the fine weather, a drop in temperature would have been nice.

After breakfast in the Evil Empire of McDonalds, I decided to take a long bus ride to the outskirts of Kyoto to visit the temple of Ryoan-Ji and it's famous rock garden. The bus ride itself was pleasant, and I passed through some of the more sedate and fascinating parts of the city.

The temple itself was another 15 minutes or so, from the bus stop, and I had to ask for directions. The entrance was hidden behind a long sloping path, and overhanging branches, and this seemed to be in the spirit of the place. I expected Ryoan-Ji to be packed, but I was pleased to find that there were only about 30 or so people in the entire grounds. This leant my whole experience something of a peaceful and reflect tilt, and I wandered around the beautiful gardens, and spent about 20 minutes gazing at the famous rock garden.

I was more fascinated by the moss covered gardens that surrounded the temple. It reminded me of something from Lord of the Rings, maybe an Elven Kingdom. The moss was such a vibrant and healthy shade of green.

A hidden stream at Ryoan-Ji

More of Kuri Temple Gardens

Kuri Temple gardens, Ryoan-Ji

The Rock Garden

Hidden Buddha...

Kyoyochi Pond at Ryoan-Ji

Kyoto part four - Sanju-Sangen-Do and a British pub.

After getting over my Ramen, I headed off to the temple of Sanju Sangen Do. From what my lonely planet guide stated it sounded rather interesting, as it housed 1001 statues of the same deity.

Sanju-Sangen-Do, was a rather plain looking temple, not uncommon in appearence to a rather long barn. However once inside, I was mesmerised by the place, and I have to admit it remains one my favourite places in Kyoto. Apparently the structure is a National Treasure and dates back to 1266, and has remained unchanged for over 700 years.

Inside the temple are 1001 golden Japanese cypress statues of the Buddhist deity Kannon. 124 were made in the 12th century and the other 876 were finished in the 13th century. It was an amazing site (and sadly photographs were not allowed inside), and strangely unsettling. I imagined them all coming to life and beheading me....

Sat in front of these statues are 28 images (other statues), placed in a straight line were the Guardian Dieties which protect Kannon and the Buddhists who believe in Kannon. Many of these orginate from India, and it really was a stunning site.

That evening I found a British theme pub, known as the Pig and Whistle and tucked into a pint of Guinness and Fish and Chips. I also started talking with some British guys who were travelling around the world, and strangely enough had come from Hiroshima...

The gardens at Sanju-Sangen-do

More of Sanju-Sangen-do

The temple of Sanju-Sagen-Do

Kyoto part three - Lunch and Higashi Hongan Ji

After wandering around Kinkaku-Ji, I was starting to feel the hunger. I mean there is only so much you can do on a Starbucks doughnut. I travelled back to the train station and found a plethora (what a cool word...) of cafes, and resturants underneath the station like some kind of Hades for the hungry...

Anyway I decided on Ramen (noodles, meat, onions in a kind of meat broth) and found a decent looking and busy shop. I have a small problem with normal Ramen over here. It's not that I don't find it delicious, but that the main ingredient is pork. It seems to move through me faster than a dose of salts thats covered in All Bran. I think you get the idea...and the toilet always seems to get it too...So I was pleased to find that the resturant did a chicken equivalent...and it was tasty.

After lunch I made a short trip to Higashi Hogan Ji, and sat at the top of the steps contemplating. Well and letting my big bowl of Ramen settle in my stomach...

A nice big Buddhist bell at Honganji

More from Higashi-Honganji

At Higashi-Honganji

Kyoto part two - Kinkaku-Ji

After wandering around Nijo-Jo for about 2 hours, I hopped back on the bus and headed back to the station. Here I boarded another bus and headed for Kinkaku-Ji, one of the most famous sites in all of Japan.

I expected it to be packed, but when I arrived (and I'm sure it had something to do with the 37 degree temperature), there were maybe 20 or so people milling around the gardens.

Kinkaku-Ji (Golden Pavilion) or Rokuon-Ji as it is properly called was built in the early 13th century and was the villa of Kintsune Saionji. However the area really began to prosper after Yoshimitsu the 3rd shogun of Ashikaga abdicated the throne in 1394. He wanted to indulge in his peaceful life in a serene setting, and the gardens now remain as it was in his day.

The temple was recoated in 1987 after the coating of Japanese lacquer was found to be little decayed. However as I stood there in the presence of a building that was both indulgent and breathtaking, I was overcome with the sheer awe I felt. Not just at Kinkaku-Ji, but at the gardens and lake that framed it.

Kinkaku-Ji

The Pond of Kyoko-Chi

The temple of Kinkaku-Ji and the Chinese Phoenix

Working hard at Kinkaku-Ji

Ringing the bell at Fudo-do (a hall dedicated to the God of Fire)

To ward away bad luck...

At Kinkaku-Ji

Kyoto part one - Nijo Jo (Castle)

Rising bright and early on Wednesday morning, I was shocked to find that even at 7 in the morning it was already 30 degrees. I showered anyway, and readied myself for the day ahead.

Evan had told me the best thing to do was to buy an all day bus pass for 500 yen, so I trotted on down to the station. Not having anything to eat, the entire day before, had left me feeling hungry, so I called in Starbucks, ordered an ice-coffee and a doughnut and perused through my lonely planet guide.

After getting my bus pass I decided to head to Nijo Jo (Jo being Japanese for Castle), before it got too warm or too crowded. Finding the right bus was no problem, neither was getting off at the right stop. Nijo-Jo is a massive structure lying just off the main Dori (street) like some dormant giant from another era.

The castle was originally built in 1603 to be the official Kyoto residence of Shogun Ieyasu, and was completed in 1626 by Shogun Iemitsu. In it's day it served as a symbol of power and authority of the Tokugawa military government. The castle has been designated a historic relic, with the Ninomaru Palace being a National Treasure (no, not the duff Nick Cage movie). The castle covers 275,000 square metres with 7,300 square metres being occupied by buildings.

The first place I passed through was the main gate, and the Bansho (Guardhouse). The gate itself is an Important Cultural Property, and is known as Higashi-Ote-Mon (Eastern main gate). It certainly was an imposing structure and I felt that my time in Kyoto was going to be one with my mouth agape most of the time.

The main palace itself is pretty fantastic. From the ornate detail above the door to the fact that this Palace is around 400 years old. The Palace consists of 3300 square metres and was originally built in 1603, being completed in 1626. It has 33 rooms and 800 Tatami mats, and is almost entirely constructed of Hinoki wood (Japanese Cypress). I was banned from taking any photographs inside the palace due to the beautiful, original and detailed paintings that decorated each room.

My favourite part of the Palace though was the floor. Known as Uguisu-Bari (Nightingale Floor) it seemed to sing everytime I stepped on it. This was of course for the Shogun's protection from Ninja's and other assassins. I thought it was a great sound, almost like an eternal sound from the past...

Outside the Palace, I then wandered through Ninomaru Gardens, that were breathtaking in the morning sun, and into the actual castle grounds of Honmaru. Honmaru was destroyed in 1750 by a great fire, and the current structure dates from 1847. It didn't look out of place though, sat in amongst the majesty of the inner garden.